
Kris DeAngelo is an attorney and educator with MSU’s Institute for Food Laws and Regulations.
Is a ribeye still a ribeye if it’s made in a factory instead of on a farm?
Although meat and poultry have up to this point been products of animals born, raised, and slaughtered, new technologies are challenging that paradigm. Now cells can be grown or cultured in nutrients and harvested as food. Enter “cultured meat,” “bio meat,” “clean meat,” “in vitro meat,” “cell-based meat,” “artificial meat,” “fake meat,” “slaughter-free meat,” or “lab meat.” The question is does it matter to YOU, the consumer, where the actual cells that make up your steak were grown, and should we label them differently?
The concept of cultured meat has been around since 1931, with Winston Churchill predicting industry moving away from the “absurdity of growing and whole chicken in order to eat a breast or wing…” the vision has become a reality.[1] Industry has been able to transform the creation of beef, lamb, goat, pork, chicken, and various species of fish. And in the future, it claims it will create cell-based shrimp, breast milk, and foie gras in addition to making blends of these meats with plant-based proteins.
Consumers, traditional meat producers, and emerging meat producers continue to spar over what to call this new technology meat. The US government has joined the naming and labeling battle, and it wants consumer and industry input. The question is are these cultured cells the same as traditional cells, and therefore should the government permit identical labeling, or does the methodology of growing and harvesting necessitate an alternate naming scheme.
You might be asking “What’s the beef?” Why deliberate about a name? But the debate regarding naming is similar to that of the cattle carcass trimmings that are heated to separate the fat, and hit with ammonium gas to create a product “lean finely textured beef” or LFTB, objectionably known as “pink slime,” which was found to meet the regulatory definition of ground beef and is now permitted to be labeled as such.[2] Now, when LFTN is added to ground beef, you would never know by looking at the label. But should “cultured meat” be labeled identically to traditional meat? Or do the benefits and costs require or permit differences?
Those that advocate for cultured meat claim numerous benefits which are sometimes difficult to quantify. Most often cited is the fact that the demand for animal-based food is increasing at an alarming rate, estimates of an 80% increase from 2006 to 2050, with demand for beef increasing by 95%.[3] The amount of pastureland, water and other natural resources needed to grow these entire animals for food is grossly disproportionate to the number of calories produced.[4] Cultured meat would fill the need while reducing the environmental impact. Similarly, without the need for entire animals, ancillary use of pesticides, fungicides, and fertilizers for crops decrease. In addition, cultured meat eliminates much of the discussion regarding animal welfare issues of living on factory farms in close confinement, the subsequent use of vaccinations and antibiotics to reduce disease outbreaks, as well as the possibility of zoonotic pandemics.[5] Likewise, cultured meat eliminates potential pathogenic contamination from microbes living in animal intestines such as E. coli, Salmonella, and Campylobacter during slaughter. It also lacks the bacteria found in the digestive tract which create trans fats.[6] Ultimately, cultured meat offers socially conscious consumers a way to “feel good” about their food choices without requiring a change in diet, the ultimate “having a steak and eating it too.”
Opponents to cultured meat argue it will negatively impact farmers, ranchers, processors, transporters, and the chemical and pharmaceutical industries financially. They disagree that less resources will be used in the production of cultured meat, because animals eat plants that covert energy from the sun, while bioreactors need their own input for cultured meat to grow.[7] Moreover, cultured meat technology has focused on muscle cells but continues to struggle to incorporate fat cells, blood vessels, nerves and connective tissue, which alter the taste, mouth feel, juiciness, nutrition, and appearance.[8] One vitamin in particular, B12, which is a product of specific bacteria that colonize the intestines, would be absent.[9] Difficulties also arise when attempting to create various cuts of meat from various anatomical locations, a chunk roast versus a tenderloin.[10] Likewise, opponents argue that the various types of cells used are difficult to obtain, difficult to keep dividing, and sensitive to changes in the culture media. Also, the favored culture media is fetal bovine serum, otherwise known as calf blood, which is unacceptable to vegetarians and seemingly unpalatable. These consumer perception and acceptance issues will be difficult to overcome. Various studies are conflicting in terms of whether the technology of cultured meat will be able to overcome notions of unnaturalness, health concerns, food safety, and price.[11] The arguments for and against are just the tip of the naming dilemma, because the goal in a name is to inform consumers about the nature of the product.
The United States Department of Agriculture Food Safety Inspection Service (USDA FSIS), is the agency in charge of ensuring that meat and poultry products are wholesome, not adulterated, and properly labeled, marked, and packaged. Specifically, FSIS is tasked with reviewing and approving labels before products enter the stream of commerce, including claims that would say “No Animals Harmed in Creating this Pork Sausage!” And FSIS is, once again, asking for consumer and industry input on naming these various meat products. The goal is to collect information to enable USDA to promulgate regulations for labeling these products that are based on science, as well as consumer and industry input. Ultimately these regulations will provide guidance to industry so that it can create labels that are “not false or misleading in any particular” pursuant to current law. This includes conforming to standards of identity (legislatively proscribed recipes or percentages to comply with a specified name[12]) or requiring language and claims on labels that prevent misleading of consumers.
This request for comments originated with a 2018 petition from industry, specifically the United States Cattlemen’s Association, who requested that FSIS limit the name “beef” to those products that “originated from cattle born, raised, and harvested in the traditional manner,” in other words, not cells grown and harvested in a factory. The petition and subsequent FSIS action garnered over 6000 comments including support positions and comments from national and local Farm Bureau Federations, numerous Cattlemen’s Associations, and many businesses as well as independent farmers and ranchers. Opponents to the petition argued such points as the fact that new technologies emerge in all areas, but new technologies do not necessitate new naming schemes or standards of identity. After receiving comments on the petition and conducting a joint public meeting with FDA, additional comments flooded FSIS expressing concerns over lack of guidance for claims on associated packages. In 2020, a secondary petition was filed by Harvard Law School asserting that FSIS should continue to investigate safety, and review proposed labels prior to limiting companies’ first amendment right to speech. Most recently, the US Governmental Accountability office assessed the information collected and determined that FSIS has collected insufficient evidence to make necessary regulations.
So now FSIS is asking for your thoughts on the following issues for comment:
(Read the full Proposed Rule and request for input at https://www.regulations.gov/document/FSIS-2020-0036-0001)
Be part of the decision-making process before the products are on your table. Go to https://www.regulations.gov/document/FSIS-2020-0036-0001 to read more about the request and click comment on the left side of the page. USDA-FSIS wants to hear your beef now or forever hold your piece (of meat).
And if cultured meat, labeling, standards of identity, claims, adulteration, GMOs, FSMA, FDA and USDA compliance and enforcement or food laws and regulations in various countries are things you want to or need to learn more about, come find us at IFLR.msu.edu and take our asynchronous semester-long classes, designed for working professionals. It’s as easy as signing up for a conference.
References
[1] https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/winston-churchill-imagined-lab-grown-hamburger-180967349/#:~:text=Churchill%20wrote%3A%20%22With%20a,separately%20under%20a%20suitable%20medium.%22
[2] https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2012-title9-vol2/pdf/CFR-2012-title9-vol2-sec319-15.pdf
[4] https://gfi.org/cultivated/
[5] https://gfi.org/cultivated/ and https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fnut.2020.00007/full
[6] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0924224419310568
[7] https://www.agweek.com/business/4890450-Cultured-meat-Good-or-bad-promise-or-peril
[8] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0924224419310568
[9]https://reader.elsevier.com/reader/sd/pii/S2095311914608819?token=B66193657F7264ADEC92C4C9341DD8221622102D60C120A9F0E6EBA888636A6DC004460157E0C5575BA3B9D91C48D9BA&originRegion=us-east-1&originCreation=20210909093822
[10] https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fnut.2020.00007/full#B10
[11] https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0924224419310568 (citing other studies)
[12] E.g. to label a product bacon it must be the cured belly of a swine carcass unless qualified and properly identified such as ‘Pork Shoulder Bacon” and “Beef Stroganoff must include 45% beef (or 30% cooked beef), at least 10% sour cream, or 7.5% sour cream and 5% wine, or 9.5% whole milk and 2% sour cream and 2.5% wine.